Cream recipes

Cream is a stable mixture of water and fat. It has many of the properties of an ointment, but is lighter. The Roman doctor Galen was the first to publish a prescription for a cream, ointments were known before. Making creams is not easy, it takes some practice and it can fail. Take your time, read everything carefully, you might get it right the first time.PurposeCreams are intended to protect, care for or enhance the beauty of the skin. A cream can also be used to attach active ingredients to the skin. Many types of makeup are in fact a cream, but with pigments so that you can colour the skin with it.


Basic formulation Cream with Glyceryl stearate SE

With our emulsifier Glyceryl stearate SE you can make the following cream. The formula is sufficient for about 100 grams of cream.

Supplies and ingredients

  • Low pan + heat source (stove, hotplate or the like)
  • Kettle or pan + heat source
  • Beaker 250 ml [30038]
  • Beaker 400 ml [30039]
  • 1 or 2 ointment spatulas [14901]
  • Weighing scale accurate to 0,1 g
  • Teaspoon or measuring spoon
  • Dropper pipettes plastic 3 ml [30110]
  • Dropper pipettes plastic 1 ml [30111]
  • Thermometer [30061]
  • Tissues
  • Cream jar(s) with lid

Water phase

  • 80 g fresh tap water
  • 3 g Glycerin [10630]
  • 0,5 g Xanthan gum [16102]
  • 20 drops (± 1 ml) HexaCon 91 [10306]

Oil phase

  • 5 g Glyceryl stearate SE [10409]
  • 2 g Cetyl alcohol [11120]
  • 10 g Macadamia oil [11005]
  • 2 drops (±- 0,1 ml) Tocoferol (Vitamin E) [10540]

Procedure

Fill the low pan with a layer of about 2 cm of water and heat the pan, but DO NOT bring the water to a boil. Place the glycerine and xanthan gum in the 250 ml beaker and mix as well as possible. Boil about 100 ml of water and weigh 80 grams into the 250 ml beaker. Stir everything together well. Place the beaker in the low pan of water. Weigh out all the components of the oil phase in the 400 ml beaker, also place this beaker in the low pan. Make sure there is enough water in the low pan, it must not boil dry!

If the temperature of both beakers is at least 70°C, HexaCon 91 can be added to the beaker with water. Stir the beaker containing the oil phase with an ointment spatula. Stir the HexaCon 91 through the water with a (different) ointment spatula. Then add the oil phase drop by drop to the water phase,
always stir the water phase well. After a drop or 20, the oil phase can be added in a thin stream, keep stirring!

When the entire oil phase has been added, the beaker with cream can be removed from the pan. Use a cloth, the beaker is warm. In the meantime, keep stirring the content
vigorously while the beaker cools. Do not stop stirring until the contents have fallen below 30°C. Then fill one or a few cream jars with the
cream and let it cool down further.

The end result is a just pumpable, soft cream, about as thick as custard.

The cream usually has a shelf life of 1 to 2 months, however, at the slightest sign of spoilage, the cream should be thrown away.

Variants and additions

  • Feel free to use another ‘fatty’ oil, such as almond oil, avocado oil or soybean oil. Or use a mixture of different oils.
  • A perfume (perfume oil or essential oil) can be added to the oil phase, do not use more than a few (3-6) drops per 100 grams of cream.
  • A little more or less oil results in a thicker or thinner cream. With a few grams of Walschot CP it becomes a much firmer cream.

Effective rich W/O cream with CastEmul

With our emulsifier CastEmul you can make a really good rich cream. This is suitable as a hand cream, foot cream, night cream, but maybe a bit too rich for use as a day cream. The yield of the recipe is about 100 grams of cream.

Supplies and ingredients

  • 2 x Beaker 250 ml [30038]
  • 1 or 2 Spatulas [14901]
  • Weighing scale accurate to 0,1 g
  • Teaspoon or measuring spoon
  • Dropping pipettes plastic 1 ml [30111]
  • Dropping pipettes plastic 3 ml [30110]
  • Tissues / adsorbent paper
  • Cream jar(s) with lid for 100 g cream

Aqueous phase

  • 70 g fresh tap water
  • 3 g Glycerin [10630]
  • 0,8 g Magnesium sulfate [13006]
  • 22 drops (± 1 ml) HexaCon 91 [10306]

Oil phase

  • 4 g CastEmul Hx [10460]
  • 22 g Macadamia oil [11005]
  • 2 drops (± 0,1 ml) Tocopherol (Vitamin E) [10540]

Procedure

You can prepare this cream cold: heating is not necessary. It is important to take the time for it: allow at least half an hour to stir. Weigh out the substances in the aqueous phase and place them in a 250 ml beaker: mix as well as possible. All magnesium sulfate must be dissolved before continuing, the HexaCon 91 may still make it a cloudy mixture. In the other 250 ml beaker, weigh all the components of the oil phase, also stir well.

Add the water phase to the oil phase drop by drop using a pipette, while stirring the oil phase well, until all is mixed well. After about 20 drops you can add a few drops of the water phase at a time: keep stirring. Then add a maximum of 1 ml of water phase at a time, keep stirring! After most of the water is added the cream will start to thicken.

When the entire water phase has been added, stir for at least another minute. Then fill one or a few cream jars with the
cream and let it cool down. The end result is a pumpable, soft cream or thick lotion, slightly thinner than custard.

The cream will usually keep for a few months, however, at the slightest sign of spoilage, the cream should be discarded.

The more time you take, the more stable and thicker the cream becomes. When curdling or separating the cream into layers, you may have worked too quickly or stirred insufficiently.

Variants and additions

  • Feel free to use another vegetable oil, such as almond oil, avocado oil or soy oil. Or use a mixture of different oils.
  • A perfume (perfume oil or essential oil) can be added to the oil phase, do not use more than a few (3-6) drops per 100 grams of cream.

Basic recipe cream with E-wax

With our e-wax emulsifier you can make the following tried and true cream. The formula for basic recipe cream with E-wax is sufficient for about 100 grams of cream.

Supplies and ingredients

  • Low pan + heat source (stove, hotplate or the like)
  • Kettle or pan + heat source
  • Beaker 250 ml [30038]
  • Beaker 400 ml [30039]
  • 1 or 2 ointment spatulas [14901]
  • Weighing scale accurate to 0.1 g
  • Teaspoon or measuring spoon
  • Dropper pipettes plastic 3 ml [30110]
  • Dropper pipettes plastic 1 ml [30111]
  • Thermometer [30061]
  • Tissues
  • Cream pot with lid

Water phase

  • 80 g fresh tap water
  • 3 g Glycerin [10630]
  • 0.5 g Xanthan gum [16102]
  • 20 drops (± 1 ml) HexaCon 91 [10306]

Oil phase

  • 5 g E-wax* [10413]
  • 2 g Cetyl alcohol [11120]
  • 10 g Macadamia oil [11005]
  • 2 drops (±- 0,1 ml) Tocoferol (Vitamin E) [10540]

* Note: tested with E-wax from De Hekserij, other types of E-wax / emulsifying wax are not automatically usable!

Procedure

Fill the low pan with a layer of about 2 cm of water and heat the pan, but DO NOT bring the water to a boil. Place the glycerine and xanthan gum in the 250 ml beaker and mix as well as possible. Boil about 100 ml of water and weigh 80 grams into the 250 ml beaker. Stir everything together well. Place the beaker in the low pan of water. Weigh out all the components of the oil phase in the 400 ml beaker, also place this beaker in the low pan. Make sure there is enough water in the low pan, it must not boil dry!

If the temperature of both beakers is at least 70°C, HexaCon 91 can be added to the beaker with water. Stir the beaker containing the oil phase with an ointment spatula. Stir the HexaCon 91 through the water with a (different) ointment spatula. Then add the oil phase drop by drop to the water phase,
always stir the water phase well. After a drop or 20, the oil phase can be added in a thin stream, keep stirring!

When the entire oil phase has been added, the beaker with cream can be removed from the pan. Use a cloth, the beaker is warm. In the meantime, keep stirring the content
vigorously while the beaker cools. Do not stop stirring until the contents have fallen below 30°C. Then fill one or a few cream jars with the
cream and let it cool down further.

The end result is a just pumpable, soft cream, about as thick as custard.

The cream usually has a shelf life of 1 to 2 months, however, at the slightest sign of spoilage, the cream should be thrown away.

Variants and additions

  • Feel free to use another ‘fatty’ oil, such as almond oil, avocado oil or soybean oil. Or use a mixture of different oils.
  • A perfume (perfume oil or essential oil) can be added to the oil phase, do not use more than a few (3-6) drops per 100 grams of cream.
  • A little more or less oil results in a thicker or thinner cream. With a few grams of Walschot CP it becomes a much firmer cream.